Spiti: A Journey Through Moon's Landscape
Spiti means "The Middle Land"—caught between Tibet and India, between earth and sky, between who you were and who you're becoming.
The Road to Kaza
The journey from Manali to Kaza is 200 kilometers of pure adrenaline and awe. Through Rohtang Pass, across the Kunzum La, past landscapes so barren and beautiful they make you question everything you thought you knew about beauty.
At 14,931 feet, Kunzum La greets you with prayer flags fluttering in wind so strong it nearly knocked me off my feet. The Kunzum Mata temple sits here, small and ancient, where travelers stop to seek blessings before descending into the Spiti Valley.
Kaza: The Heart of Spiti
Kaza is not a tourist town—it's a mountain town that happens to have tourists. Life here revolves around barley harvest, monastery prayers, and surviving winters that last six months.
I stayed at a homestay run by Tashi and Dolma. Every morning, Dolma served butter tea and thenthuk (hand-pulled noodle soup) in their warm kitchen while their daughter practiced English with me.
"You come from city?" she asked. "Always busy?"
I nodded.
"Here, we just... live," she smiled.
Key Monastery: Where Monks Chant at Dawn
Perched on a hilltop like a fortress, Key Monastery is over 1,000 years old. I visited at 5 AM when monks gathered for morning prayers. Their chants echoed through the prayer hall, deep and hypnotic, creating vibrations you could feel in your chest.
The head lama blessed me with a white khata (ceremonial scarf) and said through a translator: "Mountains are gods. Walk with respect."
Chicham Bridge: Fear and Courage
At 13,596 feet, Chicham Bridge is Asia's highest bridge, connecting Chicham and Kibber villages. It's 1,000 feet above a gorge, and walking across it with wind shaking the cables is both terrifying and exhilarating.
Standing in the middle, I looked down at the Samba valley far below and felt so small, so alive.
Practical Information
How to Reach:
- Route 1: Manali to Kaza (200 km, 8-10 hours) - Open May to October
- Route 2: Shimla → Reckong Peo → Kaza (430 km, 2 days) - Open year-round
Best Time:
- May-June: Roads open, snow melting, cold
- July-August: Monsoon (avoid Manali route)
- September-October: Best weather, clear skies, festivals
Permits Required:
- Inner Line Permit (free) for Indian citizens
- Available online or at SDM office Kaza
Budget:
- ₹2,500-3,500 per day (homestay, food, transport)
Altitude Sickness:
- Kaza is at 12,500 feet—acclimatize slowly
- Drink lots of water
- Carry Diamox (consult doctor)
- Avoid alcohol first 2 days
My Gear
- Camera: Canon EOS R5
- Lenses: 16-35mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm
- Drone: DJI Mavic 3
- Protection: Cold weather gear, down jacket
What Spiti Teaches
In Spiti, you learn that comfort is overrated. That beauty doesn't need to be green to be profound. That some journeys break you open in the best possible way.
The mountains here don't comfort you—they challenge you. And in that challenge, you find strength you didn't know you had.
Om Mani Padme Hum. 🙏